Shrovetide Buns (Egg-free)

While it is pointless to whip up an egg-free dough for a bun filled with an egg-based custard, it makes sense if you remember that Shrovetide buns can also be jam-filled. For these I used extra margarine as well as extra milk to make up for the missing egg in the dough.

This is a wee bit late for the season this year, but here goes anyway..

Ingredients:
- 150 g (¹/₃ lb) margarine
- 1.5 dL (²/₃ cup) whole-milk
- 50 g (ca. 2 oz) fresh yeast
- 5 tbsp sugar
- 400 g (14 oz) wheat flour
filling:
- ca. 200 g (7 oz) raspberry jam
glazing:
- powdered sugar
- optional powdered cocoa
- water

The margarine and milk was heated on low heat in a small pot until the margarine had melted, then transferred to a large bowl and allowed to cool until lukewarm. The fresh yeast was crumbled into the lukewarm milk-and-margarine, then the sugar was stirred in followed by the flour. The dough was kneaded for some minutes, then covered and left to rise for 1 hour.

After rising, the dough was rolled out to approximately 40 x 45 cm (ca. 15" x 18") and cut in 12 pieces. A largish tsp of raspberry jam was placed in the middle of each piece of dough and the dough was folded around the jam and the resulting buns were placed on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. The buns were then covered and left to rise on the sheet for 45 minutes.

The buns were baked for 10 minutes at 225 C (450 F) - and it appears I need to improve my technique for closing the buns as some jam ran out onto the baking sheet during baking.

The buns were served with a freshly applied glazing made by stirring together water and powdered sugar - approximate amounts (for one bun): 1 tsp water + 6 tsp powdered sugar (for a nice chocolaty variation substitute 1 or 2 tsp of the powdered sugar with powdered cocoa).

Frozen Pizza Dough

The next logical step after establishing that pizza dough can be made the day before and kept in the fridge until use was to try to freeze it. This would also allow me to make such a large batch of dough that I could use an entire pack of fresh yeast..

Ingredients:
- 5 dL (2 cups) lukewarm water^[1]
- 50 g (ca. 2 oz) fresh yeast
- 1050 g (2.3 lbs) wheat flour
- 4 + 2 tbsp olive oil
- 2 tbsp salt

The fresh yeast was crumbled into the lukewarm water and stirred, then added 4 tbsp olive oil and half of the flour. The salt was stirred in before adding the rest of the flour in portions while kneading the dough. The dough is perfect when so much flour has been added that the dough is neither sticky nor crumbly when pressing it between your thumb and your index finger - after kneading it for some extra minutes, the ball of dough was coated with 2 tbsp olive oil, the bowl covered and the dough allowed to rise for 2 hours before parting in four (each portion good for a pizza some 30 x 40 cm (12" x 15")). They were then immediately put in the freezer.

^[1] Conveniently made by mixing 3 dL cold tap water and 2 dL boiling water - needed only to stand for a short while to cool to lukewarm.

Banana cake (test)

Last time I was baking my banana cake, I realised halfway through that I didn't actually have any baking powder - the packet I thought I had turned out to be baking soda. Now, baking powder is (or at least can be) a mixture of baking soda and an acid, so in order to use baking soda in stead of the baking powder the rest of the ingredients have to be sufficiently acidic. This - as I've understood it - is not merely a question of leavening, but also one of taste. Baking soda in a batter with too little acid might result in a somewhat alkaline taste, which is not desirable in any cake I'm familiar with.

For these reasons it's not given that baking soda can be substituted for baking powder, but then a friend of mine pointed out that bananas are in fact somewhat acidic (as per this list) and therefore the banana cake might work out just fine with baking soda..

Naturally, such an idea had to be tested: are bananas sufficiently acidic to make banana cake using baking soda?

Ingredients:
- 100g (3.5 oz) margarine
- 140 g (5 oz) flour
- ²/₃ tsp baking soda
- 200 g (7 oz) sugar
- 2 tsp vanilla sugar
- 3 eggs
- 2 well-ripened bananas
frosting:
- 100 g (3.5 oz) dark chocolate

While the margarine was melted in a small pot, the other ingredients were prepared in 3 separate bowls: the bananas was mashed with a fork, the flour was mixed with the baking soda, and the sugar, vanilla and eggs were whipped to a pale foamy viscous mass. The flour-mix and the melted margarine (which should be too hot) was stirred into the egg-foam and finally the mashed bananas were stirred into the batter as well.

The batter was poured into a greased and floured bread pan and baked at 175 C (350 F) for 52 minutes. After cooling in the bread pan, the cake was moved to a large plate and covered with melted dark chocolate.

After standing for several hours to let the chocolate harden, the cake was tested: it tasted just fine - so, bananas are sufficiently acidic...

Spicy Carrot Soup

This is a soup that is guaranteed to warm you up on a cold day: intensely flavourful, spicy and with a touch of sourness too.

Ingredients:
- olive oil
- fresh ginger, finely diced
- 1 habanero chilli, finely diced
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- 2 onions, diced
- 265 g (9 oz) celery root, coarsely diced
- 345 g (12 oz) carrots, coarsely diced
- 5 dL (2 cups) beef (tongue) broth^[1]
- juice of ¹/₂ lemon
- 170 g (6 oz) Turkish yogurt
for decoration:
- 350 g (12 oz) carrots, finely diced
- a large bunch of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
to serve:
- some bread

In a large pot, using a little olive oil, the onion, garlic, ginger and chilli was sautéed for about 5 minutes before adding the coarse cubes of carrot and celery root. After an additional 10 minutes, the beef tongue broth^[1] was added. The soup was brought to a boil before reducing the heat and letting it simmer for 40 minutes. The soup was liquefied using an immersion blender (carefully - as it was quite thick, it had some tendency to spatter if not taking care) before stirring in the lemon juice and the yogurt.

In a frying the pan, the small carrot cubes were roasted in a little olive oil and when done mixed with the parsley.

The soup was served with the carrot-parsley mixture on top and a freshly baked bun on the side.

^[1] Last time I made tongue taco I concentrated the broth down to 5 dL (2 cups) - this made for a rather concentrated broth. To obtain an equivalent one would probably need to use a combination of beef and vegetable broth - concentrated to half volume.

Buns (Egg-free)

Continuing the egg-free baking theme I wanted to have an egg-free version of my basic bun recipe. To achieve this goal, I needed two slightly different egg-substitutes: some extra liquid for the dough (I went for soured/thickened milk) and something for brushing the buns immediately prior to baking (I went for whole milk). As an aside I felt like using whole wheat flour - and so it went..

Ingredients:
- 150 g (¹/₃ lb) margarine
- 5 dL (2 cups) milk
- 50 g (2 oz) fresh yeast
- 1 tbsp sugar
- 1.1 kg (2.4 lbs) whole wheat flour
- 1 tsp salt
- 2.5 dl (1 cup) A-fil^[1]
- 130 g (4.5 oz) flax seed
- 100 g (3.5 oz) sunflower seeds
- a little whole milk for brushing
- poppy seeds for decorating

The margarine was put in a small pot together with the milk and heated on medium-low heat till the margarine was melted. This mixture was transferred to a large bowl and allowed to cool to lukewarm before adding crumbled fresh yeast and sugar. The first half of the flour was stirred in, followed by the salt, thickened milk, flax seed, and sunflower seeds. The rest of the flour was added little by little and kneaded into the dough until the dough had the right texture (I aimed for neither sticky nor crumbly). When enough flour was added the final dough was kneaded for an additional couple of minutes before shaping 32 buns and placing them on baking sheets lined with baking paper - with good distance between them. The shaped buns were covered with a cloth and left to rise on the baking plates for 45 minutes.

The risen buns were brushed with a little whole milk and sprinkled with poppy seeds before being baked in the middle of the oven at 200 C (400 F) for 15-16 minutes. After baking the buns were immediately moved from the baking plate to a grid for even cooling.

This worked quite well.

^[1] Lactobacillus acidophilus-fermented milk.

Banana-Chocolate Herring

When I first came across the Icelandic speciality banana herring I was at a loss for words at first.

The sheer outlandish oddness of the dish never fails to stun people who encounter it for the first time.

That being said, it wasn't actually that long before we started brainstorming how to top this freakishness.

Credit should go to one of my dormitory friends for suggesting adding chocolate to the dish.

Once it was said I naturally had to try it. At least once. I don't make this often, but it still happens from time to time..

Ingredients:
- 4 tbsp sour cream
- 2 tbsp mayonnaise
- 4 tsp honey mustard
- 1 tsp smoked paprika
- 1 banana, diced
- 40 g (1.4 oz) 72% dark chocolate, diced
- 250 g (¹/₂ lb) plain pickled herring

The sour cream, mayonnaise and honey mustard was stirred together, then the paprika, banana and chocolate pieced were stirred in. Finally the pickled herring was added and stirred in so the herring pieces were coated in mixture. Covered and left in fridge overnight (or longer) before being served on wholegrain dark rye bread.

But how does it taste? Interestingly, the chocolate functions as a rather subtle addition to the flavour, but when served chilled the chocolate pieces add a welcome "crunch" to the texture. I should add that banana herring - with or without added chocolate - is quite rich and as such goes better as part of a larger selection of herring as well as other choices, such as a Danish Christmas lunch or similar..

Green peas (in white gravy)

This is food I grew up with, and in my parents house it was simply known as 'grønærter' (literally 'green peas'), but in reality we're talking about more than just that. Peas and bits of carrot in a white gravy with parsley - to go with boiled potatoes and certain varieties of pork. Interestingly, my muse doesn't like it very much, so it went on the list of things-to-cook-while-home-alone. One of the things it is traditionally served with (and which goes well in my opinion) is the Danish speciality medisterpølse - a long, spiralling sausage which is first boiled, then fried. Sadly I haven't seen it here in Sweden, and for the moment I have no ambitions about making my own sausages - so I simply went for some nice bratwursts.

Ingredients:
- 300 g (²/₃ lb) carrots, peeled and diced
- 300 g frozen peas
- 50 g (2 oz) shortening
- flour
- milk (around 5 dL = 2 cups)
- salt and pepper
- parsley, chopped

The carrot pieces were boiled in a minimal volume of water for 5 minutes before adding the frozen peas. The pot was brought back to boiling and boiled for another 5 minutes.
In a separate pot, margarine was melted, then stirred in flour (the amount which I could take with my large ladle). This paste was stirred into the carrot and peas, adding milk in portions and stirring constantly until a decent texture gravy was obtained. Chopped parsley (NOT flat-leaf parsley) was stirred, the gravy was seasoned to taste with salt and pepper.

Served with potatoes boiled in lightly salted water and a bratwurst.

Potato-Parsnip Mash & Beef-Chanterelle Stew

Around the New Year I was visiting friends who introduced me to something I hadn't really considered: adding other tubers to mashed potatoes. This works quite nicely, so I had to try my hand at it making this potato-parsnip mash.

To go with that I decided on trying a variation on this beef stew - more specifically a wine based beef-tube chanterelle stew.

Ingredients:
mash:
- 4 parsnips, peeled
- oil
- 10 potatoes, rinsed and quartered
- 1 dL (²/₅ cup) sour cream
- a little milk
- salt and pepper
stew:
- oil
- 1 onion, chopped coarsely
- flour
- 225 g (¹/₂ lb) beef strips
- 1 dL (²/₅ cup) red wine
- 450 g (1 lb) tube chanterelles
- 5 dL (2 cups) beef broth
- 1 clove garlic, crushed
- 3 dried juniper berries
- fresh rosemary
- salt and pepper

The peeled parsnips were drizzled with oil and baked in the oven at 200 C (400 F) for 1.5 hours.

While the parsnips were baking, I started on the stew: the chopped onion was sautéed in a large pot with a little oil, then removed from the pot. The strips of beef were coated in flour and browned on all sides in the same large pot with a little extra oil, then added the wine - stirred well to ensure no bits of flour left on the walls of the pot. Then the beef broth was added together with the tube chanterelles, crushed garlic, dried juniper berries and fresh rosemary. The pot was brought to a boil (took some time as the chanterelles were frozen), then the onions were added back, the heat was reduced and the stew was simmered for 45 minutes. At the very end it was seasoned to taste with salt and pepper.

While the stew was simmering, quartered potatoes were boiled in unsalted water. When tender the water was poured off and the baked parsnips were added. The tubers were mashed with a ladle, and sour cream and milk were stirred in till a good texture was attained. Seasoned with salt and pepper.

The stew and mash was served with baked green beans (basically a very basic version of this baked green bean salad) and a glass of the red wine...

Cinnamon Rolls (Egg-free)

Now that I'm living in Sweden I partake in 'fika' on a regular basis - to fika is to sit down with friends/colleagues/whoever and have some coffee and cake (although in my case it's tea and cake as I don't drink coffee). The majority of my fika experiences take place at work, and a substantial part of them occur at our weekly group meetings, for which we take turns at bringing bread and/or cake. It's sort of an unwritten rule that it should be home-baked, but that should be doable for someone like me.

Then my new colleagues told me about the tricky bit: our boss is allergic not only to nuts, but also to eggs. Off the top of my head I couldn't think of a single cake recipe in my repertoire that didn't include eggs - although after thinking a bit more about it I came up with one. Naturally, I felt compelled to overcome this challenge. Upon researching the subject, I found that there are in fact lots of recipes for baking without eggs on the internet. Never-the-less, I will post about here about my experiences with it.

For the first round, I chose the perhaps most quintessentially Danish/Swedish cake: the cinnamon roll. These are ubiquitous (if in somewhat different versions) in both Sweden and Denmark.


Ingredients:
dough
- 50 g (2 oz) fresh yeast
- 5 dL (2 cups) milk
- 125 g (4.4 oz) margarine
- ½ tsp salt
- 125 g (4.4 oz) sugar
- 5 tsp cardamom
- at least 900 g (2 lbs) flour
filling
- 150 g (¹/₃ lb) margarine
- 12 tbsp dark brown sugar
- 6 tbsp cinnamon

The milk and the margarine was mixed in a small pot and heated on low heat until the margarine was melted. The lukewarm mixture (let it cool for a little while if too warm) was poured over crumbled fresh yeast before adding sugar, cardamom, salt, and flour. The dough was kneaded for some minutes until smooth. The dough was covered and left to rise for a couple of hours (this was definitely plenty of time - if allowed to stand until the volume has doubled it should be sufficient).

While the dough was rising, the filling was made by mixing all the ingredients on low heat and then cooling the mixture to get a dark brown paste - if it's too runny it will cause problems later.

The risen dough was rolled out using a little little extra flour. The filling was spread evenly on the dough and then it was rolled into a log. The log was sliced and the slices were placed on a sheet of baking paper.

Tip: to prevent the rolls from uncoiling the outer end was stretched slightly and placed under the roll.

They were baked at 200 C (400 F) for 13-15 minutes.

Served warm - they can easily be frozen and re-heated in the oven. For the luxury version, they can be decorated with a frosting made from water and powdered sugar.

Cachaça

As I mentioned previously, the farmland of the state of São Paulo was once used for coffee production, but not any longer. But what is it being used for? Somewhat ironically, it is being used for exactly the same crop which the coffee originally displaced: sugar cane.

Whereas sugar cane was originally cultivated for the sugar which was back then exported to the hungry sweet-toothed European markets, it is now grown with an other purpose in mind: production of 85% ethanol (i.e. 170 proof alcohol) - primarily for the fuelling of cars on the home market, but I saw the basically same product used also as a cleansing/disinfecting agent.

Then as now, some proportion of the sugar cane was channelled for a rather for a by-product. Letting raw, unprocessed sugar cane juice ferment and then distilling it results in cachaça. Cachaça is available in literally hundreds of different varieties - ranging in prize (and rawness) from the very, very affordable (well, in Brazil anyway) to the exceedingly expensive. If you're in Brazil you just need to find yourself a cachaçaria to be able to sample a range of them.

Naturally, I brought a bottle home for myself. While you can drink it neat, the more famous way is as caipirinha. I believe it's traditionally made by crushing limes and sugar, then pouring over sugar and cachaça. I opt for a somewhat different approach because I find it easier to mix it properly (and because it's easier for me to learn the right relative proportions this way): I squeeze out the juice of one lime, add about the same volume of cachaça, 2-3 tsp sugar, ice cubes and smaller pieces of the lime I just squeezed.


Delicious!

Yerba Mate (more applied mathematics)

One morning at a pousada in Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil, I found myself with limited tea options. True: there were a number of different bags that I could chose to make a hot infusion from, but none of them were a straight tea. Personally disliking most flower, berry and/or spice teas I opted instead for the joker - the to me previously not encountered yerba mate. I was quite pleased with my choice. The resulting drink wasn't entirely unlike tea - straight tea, mind you - perhaps a bit smokier, but by no means too much for my taste.

When I found bags of yerba mate for sale at very reasonable prices in the supermarket I decided to import some myself (being back home again I see that I can buy it here, although not nearly as cheaply). It might not be the most authentically Brazilian thing to bring home, seeing as it is considered the national drink of Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay, but it's also commonly enjoyed in southern Brazil (as well as in other countries in South America).

While the drink made from yerba mate, commonly known as mate (pronounced ma-te), is quite like tea, there are a number of differences. For starters, the plant is actually a species of holly and the caffeine content is generally higher than in tea (though not as high as in coffee). Supposedly, a strongly bitter and disagreeable taste results if one pours boiling water on yerba mate. Water at 80 C (176 F) is recommended. Not wanting to find a thermometer, I opted instead for mixing proper amounts of boiling water (i.e. 100 C = 212 F) and tap water, which I assumed to be at room temperature (20 C = 68 F). Since I'm mixing water with water I don't have to worry about the specific heat capacity and the calculation simplifies quite a bit. Setting the volume of boiling water to x and the volume of tap water to y, we get (ignoring units):

100x + 20y = 80(x+y)
20x = 60y
x = 3y

which is to say that I should use 3 parts boiling water to 1 part tap water.

Another interesting difference to tea: The dried ground leaves end up as a very fine powder - much finer than any tea I've ever had. Accordingly, when I made my first pot of mate, some of the powder wasn't retained by the sieve I used. The drink had a slight cloudiness to it at first, but then the particles settled to the bottom of my tea cup. Of course, I have no right complain - drinking, as a I am, mate like a know-nothing barbarian. Tradition dictates that mate be drunk through a specially designed metal straw (called a bomba or bombilla) from a hollowed gourd.

Swedish Beer - Part VI / Yule Ales

Living now in Sweden, I expected certain traditions regarding Christmas and beer to be observed. I was not let down. After I returned from Brazil, Systembolaget had rearranged some of their goods to make space for a few shelves dedicated to Christmas beers. Anticipating pre-Christmas visitors I picked up a handful.


Åbro Julbock didn't quite live up to my expectations - while it was dark and clearly in the style of Scandinavian Christmas beers in general, it seemed lacking in taste when compared to the two excellent Christmas beers from Nynäshamn Ångbryggeri and Nils Oscar. The Winter Ale from Oppigård was a pleasant surprise: true to its name, and unlike the others it is actually an ale.

Jackfruit

I recently went to Brazil and one of the cities I visited was the city of Ribeirão Preto, in what was once the heartland of Brazilian coffee production. Now, according to locals, the only coffee trees that remain in Riberão Preto are those separating the two directions of traffic down the middle of Avenida do Café. On the grounds of what used to be one of the very largest coffee plantations in Brazil, but which now belongs to the Ribeirão Preto campus of USP (Universidade de São Paulo), one finds the Plínio Travassos dos Santos municipal museum and it's direct neighbour, the Coronel Fransisco Schmidt coffee museum.

Shortly after entering the municipal museum a lady working there inquired as to my origin, and my attempts to explain Sweden were initially stumped by my lack of proficiency in Portuguese (as far as I could understand the only language she spoke). Then when I found the museum's collection of coins which contained a few Swedish coins, I was able to tell her Suécia. After trying to explain to me some details of a painting of the coffee plantation that used to be there she gave up on me for a while, only to come to me later to make sure that I also visited the neighbouring coffee museum.

Guiding me through the garden towards the coffee museum, she suddenly pointed to some rather large fruits sitting several meters up a tree in the garden and exclaimed "Jaca". Judging alone by size of the fruits I guessed that these might be jackfruits - which is correct according to wikipedia. Not thinking much more of it I entered and quickly toured the coffee museum. The quickness of my tour was due mainly to (a) the relatively modest size of the coffee museum (b) my poor ability to read Portuguese (even if better than my ability to speak it) - more so than the fact that I don't actually drink coffee. Upon exiting the coffee museum, I found my new friend approaching with a plate of palish yellow pieces of fruit flesh.. yes, it was time for me to taste the jackfruit.

My new friend proceeded to show me how each seed sits in a coat of fruit flesh, which can be torn from the fruit and eaten. It was quite sweet and personally I rather liked it.

Bowmore Laimrig

As it turns out this purchase was more special than I realised at first.

Passing the shelf with whiskey, someone nudged me and asked if I didn't want a bottle. Well .. put like that .. how could I not? I glanced over the selection.. what to choose: something new or an old favourite?

When I did pick Bowmore Laimrig, it was based partly on my previous experience with Bowmore and partly on the lovely amber colour. Little did I know that what I was buying was something I couldn't have bought any old place: Bowmore Laimrig is made especially for the Swedish market and is sold exclusively by Systembolaget.

The beautiful colour that caught my attention in the first place is no doubt influenced by the two-stage ageing: first in old bourbon casks and then in old Oloroso sherry casks. The latter of these is likely what lends the taste a particularly smooth edge - the smokiness comes out much in the after-taste in this one.

Liver with Bacon and Capers

Not so long ago I went out for lunch. My eyes scanned the short menu and upon seeing the 'Veal liver with bacon and capers in red wine sauce' there was no turning back. I had to try that. And after trying it, I had to make it myself as well.

Ingredients:
- potatoes
- green beans
- 1 large onion, sliced
- 50 g (2 oz) thinly sliced bacon
- 650 g (1.4 lbs) beef liver, sliced
- salt & pepper
- 1 dL (¹/₂ cup) red wine
- 1 dL (¹/₂ cup) cream
- capers
salad:
- lettuce
- baby plum tomatoes
- pea sprouts

I started by preparing the salad, then rinsed the potatoes and boiled them in lightly salted water. The green beans were boiled in lightly salted water in a separate pot (on account of needing less time).

The bacon was fried till nicely crisp, then removed from the pan and chopped - in the same pan, the liver slices were fried with salt and pepper. When the liver slices were done, they were removed from the pan, and the onion rings were caramelized - then removed. Lastly, the red wine was added to the pan, allowed to concentrate a little before adding the cream to obtain a sauce.

The fried liver slices were served with bacon bits and capers on top. The potatoes with onion rings, and red wine-cream sauce, green beans and salad on the side. And a glass of the red wine..

Next time, I think I'll try a different approach with the red wine sauce - it wasn't bad, but it wasn't quite like the one I had at the restaurant either..

Black Balzam

Having noted my taste in various spirits, a friend of mine picked my a bottle of this potion when he went to Riga this summer.

I hadn't heard of it before, and so was intrigued. Turns out its a herbal bitter - think along the lines of Gammel Dansk, Jägermeister, or Killepitsch.

I was also happy see that someone out there is keeping alive the old tradition of selling spirits in earthenware bottles.

Potato Pizza 2

We read about a variation on this concept .. and realised it was sufficiently different to merit a post on its own. I think the two are equally good - just different.

Ingredients:
- 2 portions pizza dough
- olive oil
- 4 yellow onions, finely diced
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- fresh thyme
- salt & pepper
- 8-10 potatoes, thinly sliced
after baking:
- parmigiano reggiano, freshly grated
for serving:
- fresh arugula (rocket)

The finely diced onions were caramelized in a little olive oil together with crushed garlic, fresh thyme, salt and pepper - then set aside.

Each portion of the pizza dough was rolled aided by durum flour.

Each pizza was topped with a layer of caramelized onions, then potato slices and sprinkled with oil, salt and pepper.

The pizzas were baked in the oven at 225 C (450 F) for 20 minutes.

After baking the pizzas were sprinkled with more fresh thyme and freshly grated parmigiano reggiano - and served with a little fresh arugula.

Danish Beer - Part VI / Bear Beer II

Danish brewery Harboe's is probably most famous for Bjørnebryg^[1] - which would translate as 'Bear Brew', but in the US I saw it sold under the name 'Bear Beer' (in Trader Joe's) - with the trademark polar bear on the label. Interestingly, when I bought Bjørnebryg in the US it was probably the first time in my life I ever bought it - and mainly for warped nostalgic/patriotic reasons. Thing is - to my mind Bjørnebryg has a rather dismal reputation: it's not famous for being a particularly good beer, but much more so for being a relatively cheap strong beer (traditionally 7.7% ABV). In short, it has the reputation of being a beer for alcoholics.


But if Bjørnebryg's raison d'être is it's comparatively good alcohol/price ratio rather than the taste experience itself, then that begs the question of why the Swedes seem to want a low-alcohol content version of that beer? While Systemet sells Bjørnebryg holding 7.2% ABV, some Swedish supermarkets sell a version with 2.8% ABV. Naturally, I was intrigued. Unfortunately, as I expected, there is no good reason for buying this beer. And the real one is so intensely alcoholic that I ended up mixing the two for a more drinkable (if not memorable) compromise.

^[1] While Danish brewery Carlberg also sells a strong beer leaning on the imagery of the raw power of exotic animals (Carlsberg Elephant Beer, 7.2% ABV) this sales tactics not unique to Danish breweries as witnessed by e.g. the Finnish Kahru and the American Rhino Chasers.

Yggenyk Cookies

When I was a child one of the stories I really enjoyed was the story about the yggenyks (which are three-legged birds) stealing the round tower in Copenhagen. The yggenyks then demanded a ransom of yggenyk cookies for returning the popular tower. The book even had the recipe for authentic yggenyk cookies - complete with a warning not to leave the window open when baking them since yggenyk might get attracted by the lovely scent. I, of course, loved these cookies as a child too.

Earlier this year, I felt like making yggenyk cookies myself and googled the subject. This is when things got complicated. Spellings varied 'yggenyk', 'yggenyg', 'ykkenyk' and I suddenly had three fairly different recipes all claiming to be the recipe for authentic yggenyk cookies. The three recipes were quite similar except for a few key issues: one didn't include eggs (seemed at the very least unusual), another didn't include any obvious leavening agent, while the last one called for both eggs and hartshorn.^[1]

It seemed the confusion stemmed at least partly from the fact that the author had in fact given two different recipes for authentic yggenyk cookies - one in the book I remembered, and another one in the book in which the yggenyks steal the queen's palace in Copenhagen demanding a cookie ransom (yes, a fairly similar plot).

After discussing the matter with my external consultant^[2] I opted for the recipe including both eggs and hartshorn... and was somewhat disappointed with the resulting cookies. They were not as hard as I remembered them, and in hindsight I guess I used too much hartshorn (the recipe calls for 'a pinch'^[3]). Some time went by and I tried again - the result was better, but still not quite to my satisfaction. On the third attempt I was finally learning to use sufficiently little hartshorn for the cookies not to rise too much.

Ingredients:
- 250 g (9 oz) granulated sugar
- 250 g (9 oz) margarine, chunks
- 100 g (3.5 oz) dark chocolate chopped
- 3 eggs
- pinch of salt
- pinch of hartshorn
- 500 g (18 oz) flour
optional coating:
- 130 g (4.5 oz) milk chocolate

The margarine was cut in chunks and worked into the sugar using a ladle.^[4] The eggs were stirred in one by one, and then the chopped dark chocolate. Salt and hartshorn were added and lastly the flour was stirred in in three portions.

The dough was rolled into 50 balls which were placed on two baking sheets and baked sequentially on the top rack at 200 C (400 F) for 16 minutes each. Once out of the oven the cookies were transferred to a rack to cool.

The cooled cookies were flipped upside down and the bottoms were coated with melted milk chocolate (melted with three 20 second pulses in the microwave oven). The milk chocolate was allowed to harden before storing in cookie tins.


The resulting cookies were much like I remembered them (if still less hard), although the grown-up me has to concede it's basically just a chocolate chip cookie. I'm not sure I'd bother with the milk chocolate bottom coating next time - it didn't add that much to the overall result.

^[1] Hartshorn = Ammonium bicarbonate (aka 'powdered baking ammonia').
^[2] i.e. my mom.
^[3] In Danish 'a pinch' is 'en knivspids' - i.e. "as much as lies on the tip of a knife".
^[4] This part is clearly easier if the margarine is allowed to warm to room temperature first.

Green Enchiladas with Prawns and Chèvre

I admit it: when I was living in California, I neglected enchiladas. Why? I'm not sure, I was vaguely aware that they existed, but for some reason I underestimated their potential. Last year I realised this had been a mistake when I went to dinner at a friend's place and had some enchiladas there. Then I kinda forgot about it for a while, until I saw a recipe for green enchiladas in bon appetit, but thought I couldn't do anything about it as I hadn't seen tomatillos anywhere since leaving California. But recently I found some at a market right here in Stockholm, and here follows the result.

Ingredients:
- 12 tortillas (medium sized)
salsa verde:
- 4 tomatillos
- 7 jalapeño peppers
- 2 cloves garlic
- juice of 1 lime
- salt
filling:
- 400-500 g (1 lb) tiger prawns
- 1-2 tsp ground cumin
- 1 large red onion
- small bunch fresh oregano
- 2 jalapeño peppers
- 8 scallions, chopped
- 150 g (¹/₃ lb) chèvre
topping:
- 1 bunch cilantro
- 1 avocado

I started with the salsa verde:
The tomatillos were de-husked, rinsed and boiled for 15 minutes, then blended with crushed garlic, jalapeño peppers, lime juice and a little salt.

The prawns were fried with ground cumin, then added onion boats, oregano, and finely chopped jalapeño peppers.

The bottom of an oven-proof tray was coated with a little less than half the salsa verde.
Working one at the time, the tortillas were added a line of prawn-onion mixture down the middle, then added chopped scallion and a little chèvre. The tortilla was then rolled and placed in the tray. The tray was nicely filled up once all the tortillas were rolled and the rest of the salsa verde was spread over them. They were baked at 200 C (400 F) for 20 minutes.

The enchiladas were served with freshly chopped cilantro and avocado wedges.

Delicious! Now I really want to make more enchiladas...