Monday 30 November 2009

Potato Pizza 2

We read about a variation on this concept .. and realised it was sufficiently different to merit a post on its own. I think the two are equally good - just different.

Ingredients:
- 2 portions pizza dough
- olive oil
- 4 yellow onions, finely diced
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- fresh thyme
- salt & pepper
- 8-10 potatoes, thinly sliced
after baking:
- parmigiano reggiano, freshly grated
for serving:
- fresh arugula (rocket)

The finely diced onions were caramelized in a little olive oil together with crushed garlic, fresh thyme, salt and pepper - then set aside.

Each portion of the pizza dough was rolled aided by durum flour.

Each pizza was topped with a layer of caramelized onions, then potato slices and sprinkled with oil, salt and pepper.

The pizzas were baked in the oven at 225 C (450 F) for 20 minutes.

After baking the pizzas were sprinkled with more fresh thyme and freshly grated parmigiano reggiano - and served with a little fresh arugula.

Thursday 26 November 2009

Danish Beer - Part VI / Bear Beer II

Danish brewery Harboe's is probably most famous for Bjørnebryg[1] - which would translate as 'Bear Brew', but in the US I saw it sold under the name 'Bear Beer' (in Trader Joe's) - with the trademark polar bear on the label. Interestingly, when I bought Bjørnebryg in the US it was probably the first time in my life I ever bought it - and mainly for warped nostalgic/patriotic reasons. Thing is - to my mind Bjørnebryg has a rather dismal reputation: it's not famous for being a particularly good beer, but much more so for being a relatively cheap strong beer (traditionally 7.7% ABV). In short, it has the reputation of being a beer for alcoholics.


But if Bjørnebryg's raison d'être is it's comparatively good alcohol/price ratio rather than the taste experience itself, then that begs the question of why the Swedes seem to want a low-alcohol content version of that beer? While Systemet sells Bjørnebryg holding 7.2% ABV, some Swedish supermarkets sell a version with 2.8% ABV. Naturally, I was intrigued. Unfortunately, as I expected, there is no good reason for buying this beer. And the real one is so intensely alcoholic that I ended up mixing the two for a more drinkable (if not memorable) compromise.

[1] While Danish brewery Carlberg also sells a strong beer leaning on the imagery of the raw power of exotic animals (Carlsberg Elephant Beer, 7.2% ABV) this sales tactics not unique to Danish breweries as witnessed by e.g. the Finnish Kahru and the American Rhino Chasers.

Sunday 22 November 2009

Yggenyk Cookies

When I was a child one of the stories I really enjoyed was the story about the yggenyks (which are three-legged birds) stealing the round tower in Copenhagen. The yggenyks then demanded a ransom of yggenyk cookies for returning the popular tower. The book even had the recipe for authentic yggenyk cookies - complete with a warning not to leave the window open when baking them since yggenyk might get attracted by the lovely scent. I, of course, loved these cookies as a child too.

Earlier this year, I felt like making yggenyk cookies myself and googled the subject. This is when things got complicated. Spellings varied 'yggenyk', 'yggenyg', 'ykkenyk' and I suddenly had three fairly different recipes all claiming to be the recipe for authentic yggenyk cookies. The three recipes were quite similar except for a few key issues: one didn't include eggs (seemed at the very least unusual), another didn't include any obvious leavening agent, while the last one called for both eggs and hartshorn.[1]

It seemed the confusion stemmed at least partly from the fact that the author had in fact given two different recipes for authentic yggenyk cookies - one in the book I remembered, and another one in the book in which the yggenyks steal the queen's palace in Copenhagen demanding a cookie ransom (yes, a fairly similar plot).

After discussing the matter with my external consultant[2] I opted for the recipe including both eggs and hartshorn... and was somewhat disappointed with the resulting cookies. They were not as hard as I remembered them, and in hindsight I guess I used too much hartshorn (the recipe calls for 'a pinch'[3]). Some time went by and I tried again - the result was better, but still not quite to my satisfaction. On the third attempt I was finally learning to use sufficiently little hartshorn for the cookies not to rise too much.

Ingredients:
- 250 g (9 oz) granulated sugar
- 250 g (9 oz) margarine, chunks
- 100 g (3.5 oz) dark chocolate chopped
- 3 eggs
- pinch of salt
- pinch of hartshorn
- 500 g (18 oz) flour
optional coating:
- 130 g (4.5 oz) milk chocolate

The margarine was cut in chunks and worked into the sugar using a ladle.[4] The eggs were stirred in one by one, and then the chopped dark chocolate. Salt and hartshorn were added and lastly the flour was stirred in in three portions.

The dough was rolled into 50 balls which were placed on two baking sheets and baked sequentially on the top rack at 200 C (400 F) for 16 minutes each. Once out of the oven the cookies were transferred to a rack to cool.

The cooled cookies were flipped upside down and the bottoms were coated with melted milk chocolate (melted with three 20 second pulses in the microwave oven). The milk chocolate was allowed to harden before storing in cookie tins.


The resulting cookies were much like I remembered them (if still less hard), although the grown-up me has to concede it's basically just a chocolate chip cookie. I'm not sure I'd bother with the milk chocolate bottom coating next time - it didn't add that much to the overall result.

[1] Hartshorn = Ammonium bicarbonate (aka 'powdered baking ammonia').
[2] i.e. my mom.
[3] In Danish 'a pinch' is 'en knivspids' - i.e. "as much as lies on the tip of a knife".
[4] This part is clearly easier if the margarine is allowed to warm to room temperature first.

Wednesday 18 November 2009

Green Enchiladas with Prawns and Chèvre

I admit it: when I was living in California, I neglected enchiladas. Why? I'm not sure, I was vaguely aware that they existed, but for some reason I underestimated their potential. Last year I realised this had been a mistake when I went to dinner at a friend's place and had some enchiladas there. Then I kinda forgot about it for a while, until I saw a recipe for green enchiladas in bon appetit, but thought I couldn't do anything about it as I hadn't seen tomatillos anywhere since leaving California. But recently I found some at a market right here in Stockholm, and here follows the result.

Ingredients:
- 12 tortillas (medium sized)
salsa verde:
- 4 tomatillos
- 7 jalapeño peppers
- 2 cloves garlic
- juice of 1 lime
- salt
filling:
- 400-500 g (1 lb) tiger prawns
- 1-2 tsp ground cumin
- 1 large red onion
- small bunch fresh oregano
- 2 jalapeño peppers
- 8 scallions, chopped
- 150 g (1/3 lb) chèvre
topping:
- 1 bunch cilantro
- 1 avocado

I started with the salsa verde:
The tomatillos were de-husked, rinsed and boiled for 15 minutes, then blended with crushed garlic, jalapeño peppers, lime juice and a little salt.

The prawns were fried with ground cumin, then added onion boats, oregano, and finely chopped jalapeño peppers.

The bottom of an oven-proof tray was coated with a little less than half the salsa verde.
Working one at the time, the tortillas were added a line of prawn-onion mixture down the middle, then added chopped scallion and a little chèvre. The tortilla was then rolled and placed in the tray. The tray was nicely filled up once all the tortillas were rolled and the rest of the salsa verde was spread over them. They were baked at 200 C (400 F) for 20 minutes.

The enchiladas were served with freshly chopped cilantro and avocado wedges.

Delicious! Now I really want to make more enchiladas...

Sunday 15 November 2009

Grilled Zucchini & Eggplant Pizza

Although I was quite happy with the recipe for pizza dough I picked up recently, one tiny detail did bother me: That the dough has to stand and rise for an hour makes for some rather late dinners if I make the dough when I come home from work.

So, I started thinking: what happens if I make the dough the evening before? Will it work? Or does yeast dough 'un-rise' if left for too long?

Well, only one way to find out.

The dough was mixed and kneaded just like in the other recipe, but after coating the ball of dough in a little olive oil and placing it in a bowl under film it was left standing overnight. The next morning the dough was parted in two equal portions, each wrapped in film and stored in the fridge until after work. The doughs were rolled with a little durum flour as usual - and the result was just as great as always. So, now the question is: for how long can I store pizza dough in the fridge?

Anyway - this batch was topped with:
- tomato sauce
- mozzarella, sliced
- black olives, sliced
- 1 eggplant, sliced and broiled
- 1 zucchini, sliced and broiled
after baking sprinkled:
- salt
- pepper
- dried oregano
- fresh rocket salad
served with:
a glass of Chilean Errariuz Pinot Noir - a very smooth red wine

Wednesday 11 November 2009

Swedish Beer - Part V / Oppigård


Systemet carries a whole selection of beers from Swedish microbrewery Oppigård - so far I have seen Golden Ale, Single Hop Ale, Summer Ale and Starkporter - and they are generally very good. I'm looking forward to trying the Winter Ale, which I expect to be available any time now...

The great beer aside, there is another detail which I quite like. The brewery started selling beer as recently as 2004 and the labels say Gott öl från Dalarna - Början på en tradition which translates as Good beer from the Dales - The beginning of a tradition. I say: Skål to that.

Saturday 7 November 2009

Leek-Lemongrass Soup

Seeking inspiration for a soup I came across the notion of a leek and lemongrass soup - and immediately thought: that sounds good... soup with lemongrass sounds like just what I want right about now.

Ingredients:
- 6 leeks, sliced at 45 degree angle (to give oval slices)
- 3 sticks lemon grass, finely cut
- oil
- juice of 1/2 lemon
- 3 egg yolks
- 6 tbsp Turkish yogurt
- 1.5 L (6 cups) vegetable bouillon
- ground nutmeg
- salt & pepper
coriander raita
- juice of 1 lime
- same amount olive oil
- salt and pepper
- 8 scallions, finely sliced
- 1 bunch coriander, coarsely chopped
for serving
- bread


The coriander raita was prepared first, so it could stand while preparing the soup. The juice of a lime was stirred with an equal amount of olive oil, then added salt and pepper. Finally, coarsely chopped coriander and finely sliced scallions were stirred in.

For the soup, leeks and lemon grass were cleaned, cut and mixed. The leek-lemongrass mixture was sautéed quickly in a little olive oil in portions (if you have a really huge pan you might get away with doing it in one go) making sure not to give them so much that the leeks browned or turned soft. The sautéed leek-lemongrass mixture was collected in a bowl and added lemon juice.


The egg yolks were stirred together with the yogurt and this mixture was stirred into hot (recently boiling) vegetable bouillon. Then the leek-lemongrass mixture was added together with ground nutmeg. The soup was brought to a boil and seasoned to taste with salt and pepper. Then removed from the heat and served immediately with coriander raita on top and bread on the side.

Tuesday 3 November 2009

Mint Julep Cake (Round 1)

I happened upon this concept one day as I was searching for ways to use the rest of a can of sweetened condensed milk - I didn't go for it on that day as I lacked several other key ingredients, but it wasn't long before I returned... that it ended up being a project which took me several days to complete, is then another matter.

Ingredients:
- 340 g (12 oz) flour
- 400 g (14 oz) sugar
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 1/2 tsp baking soda
- 1 tsp vanilla sugar
- 225 g (8 oz) margarine
- 2.5 dL (1 cup) A-fil[1]
- 4 eggs
butter bourbon sauce:
- 75 g (2.6 oz) margarine
- 85 g (3 oz) powdered sugar
- 3 tbsp water
- 2 tsp bourbon (I used Jack Daniels)
white chocolate ganache:
- 1 can (397 g / 14 oz) sweetened condensed milk
- 300 g (10.6 oz) white chocolate
- 6 tbsp mint syrup

In a large bowl was stirred together flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and vanilla sugar - this dry mixture was then left with a crater in the middle.

In a separate bowl was whisked together margarine, a-fil, and eggs (hand-hell mixer on low setting). This wet mixture was then then whisked into the dry mixture (above) - at first on low speed to merely mix the two, and then 3 minutes on medium speed to create a homogeneous batter.

The batter was poured into a buttered and floured 9 inch spring form and baked at 175 C (350 F). It took an hour and 10 minutes before the cake was sufficiently done (knife inserted at the middle came out clean) - obviously a bundt cake or a sheet cake would require different baking times.

While the cake was baking the butter bourbon sauce was prepared: powdered sugar, water and margarine was stirred over medium heat till melted and homogeneous (shouldn't reach boiling). Then it was removed from the heat and stirred for an additional two minutes before the bourbon was stirred in.

While the cake was still hot holes were poked in the top (with a knife) and the butter bourbon sauce was poured over. Then the cake was allowed to stand and cool while absorbing the butter bourbon sauce.

Later, the cake was covered with film and stored in the fridge for a couple of days before I could continue.

The ganache was prepared by heating condensed milk and white chocolate on low heat with constant stirring until the chocolate melted and the mixture became homogeneous. Then mint syrup was stirred in (again till homogeneous) and the ganache was allowed to cool for 10 minutes before trying to apply it to the cake.

At this point the ganache was far too runny and only about half was applied. Then the cake was placed in the fridge for 15 minutes to let the applied ganache set (and let the rest of the ganache cool down further). Then more of the ganache was applied, but it was still a bit too runny - after cooling the cake in the fridge for an additional 20 minutes the rest of the ganache could finally be applied.

The cake was served with a few leaves of fresh mint - very delicious. However, next time, I think I'll try more bourbon in the butter bourbon sauce, as well as more mint in the ganache - and quite possibly less ganache and of course more cooling before applying it.

Update: For an updated version of this recipe see here.

[1] The original recipe called for buttermilk - however, this is not available in Swedish stores as all buttermilk produced is currently delivered directly to bakeries. I decided to opt for A-fil because of it's tangy freshness - for more on A-fil see here.